The Natural Beauty Workshop

CO2 Extracts

Yet another method of extracting botanical oils is through the use of supercritical CO2 extraction. Carbon dioxide is converted to a liquid form and is used like a solvent to extract the plant components. When a low pressure of CO2 is used, only the most volatile components of the plant are extracted. These extracts are called CO2 Selects, referring to how they only contain the select materials. CO2 Selects contain only the essential oil of the plant. These tend to be thinner than CO2 Totals, which contain more actual plant material, both volatile and non-volatile components. These are created by using a higher pressure of CO2 during extraction. CO2 totals tend to be thicker, more slow moving extracts since they contain the natural waxes or resins of the plant.

What makes CO2 Extracts so exceptional is that they contain no leftover solvent residue. The carbon dioxide returns to its natural gaseous state at the end of the process, leaving nothing but the pure extract behind. These oils are the closest representation of the natural botanical ever achieved. Because the plants are not in risk of heat degradation, CO2 Extracts can be made from a vast number of plants. FromNatureWithLove.com proudly carries a large selection of unique CO2 Extracts that are wonderful for use in natural skincare products as well as aromatherapy.

Absolutes

Absolutes are botanical extracts that are created using a special, solvent extraction process. The solvent is used to first extract what is called a concrete from the plant. A concrete consists of waxes, resins, essential oils, and other oil soluble materials. Although the concrete is fragrant, many of the components within the concrete are not. Another solvent, often ethyl alcohol, is used to "wash" the concrete, extracting a pungent oil which is called "absolute". The wax that remains is named floral wax and also has uses in perfumery and skin care.

Just as they are extracted differently than essential oils, absolutes look and feel different than essential oils. They are often thick, slow moving, and have very powerful aromas. You may be surprised by the huge variety of plants that absolutes are made from. Jasmine, rose, and vanilla, are some of the most popular types, but they are hardly the only absolutes out there. Flowers like mimosa, carnation, and lotus are made into absolutes. Some more surprising varieties include coconut, sea vegetables, and cocoa. There are even absolutes made from non-plant materials such as honey and beeswax.

The high price of Absolutes have limited their availability to hobbyists and small businesses in the past. For some time they were mostly used in the creation of high end perfumes. With natural skincare's surge in popularity, they are beginning to become more desirable to cosmetic companies. Nowadays you can find them used in designer products, everywhere from your local pharmacy to Sephora. FromNatureWithLove.com is proud to carry a line of high quality Absolutes that are great for perfumery and cosmetic formulations.
 

Attars

True attars are traditional Indian perfume oils that have been handcrafted by master artisans for centuries. Delicate flowers are distilled in a base of pure Sandalwood Oil to preserve their fragile fragrances. Many flowers that are used to create attars are either too expensive to create cost effective essential oils, or are too fragile to withstand the process that is used to create an essential oil. Sandalwood acts as a base and fixative to the floral aromas, binding the molecules together. This amazing process requires not only expertise, but a great amount of patience. A true attar can take anywhere from two weeks to three years to create. Thankfully, the beauty of attars are worth the wait. The floral notes bond to the Sandalwood over time. Some perfumers believe that like wine, attars become enhanced with age.

With the price of Sandalwood products skyrocketing over the past few years, sources for true attars are becoming scarce. Like many traditions, the creation of attars has become modernized, using new methods to achieve the same complex aromas found in traditionally manufactured attars. FromNatureWithLove.com is proud to carry 100% natural attars. Although they are produced with more efficient methods, they remain pure and unadulterated. Unfortunately, some manufacturers have been forced to corrupt the purity of their attars by using petroleum based additives or synthetic fragrances to cut costs and time constraints. When you are purchasing attars be careful to choose a reputable vendor and don't be afraid to ask questions. Using these exotic oils can be an enchanting, but expensive experience, so it is important to make sure that you are getting a quality product.

Building an Aroma

The perfect fragrance can be hard to find. There are countless fragrances on the market, and hundreds on FromNatureWithLove.com alone, but sometimes you have a product that needs that extra special touch. A uniquely blended fragrance has the potential to take your product from pleasant to unforgettable in just one whiff.

Fragrance Blending Basics
Fragrances can be comprised of many different ingredients. Some of the most common are essential oils, absolutes, CO2 extracts, attars, and synthetic fragrance oils. The fragrances are then carried in an oil, a solid balm, a perfume, or directly in a product, such as a lotion, soap, or room spray. Building a great fragrance has been compared to architecture, musical composition, or even madness! The most notable comparison is that of the process being musical. Musical terms are found throughout perfumery.
There are three sections of a fragrance:

Top notes are the first aromas to be experienced by the user. They are often sweet or fruity, sometimes fresh, green, or even spicy. Top notes are a great place for playful scents because they are the first to fade away. They make up the smallest part of your fragrance at only 15 to 25%. Some good examples of top notes are:

Apple, Basil, Bergamot, Black Pepper, Cardamom, Cinnamon, Eucalyptus, Grapefruit, Green Tea, Lavender, Lime, Mandarin, Neroli, Pear, Pine, Spice, Tangerine, White Peach

Middle notes, also referred to as heart or bouquet notes, act as a bridge between the top and bottom notes. Their scents are usually distinctive aromas, such as florals, herbs, or spices. Their aroma blooms after the top note has faded. Middle notes make up about 30 to 40% of the total fragrance. Some examples of middle notes are:

Cedar, Chamomile, Coconut, Clove, Gardenia, Honey, Jasmine, Lily, Petitgrain, Magnolia, Oakmoss, Rose, Rosemary, Tiare, Ylang Ylang

The base or bottom notes make up the bulk of the fragrance, usually comprising 40 to 55% of the total formula. They are the longest lasting element in a fragrance. These notes are often deep, heavy scents, like woods, resins, and spices. Some examples of base notes are:

Amber, Frankincense, Ginger, Musks, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Vetiver

For a detailed list of aromas categorized by note, please visit our Aromatic Notes page.

When you have achieved a fragrance that you are happy with, there are many ways of using it. Fragrance blends can be used to enhance products or they can be showcased in perfumes. For more information on making perfumes and blends try one of these great books from the FromNatureWithLove.com Bookstore!

The Aromatherapy Companion by Victoria H. Edwards
There is a lot more than just perfumery in this book! It is an indispensable resource to me and I’m sure you’ll find it to be the same. Pertaining to this subject, it has a great chapter on making natural perfumes and shares a lot of expert advice on blending essential oils.

Perfumes, Splashes and Colognes Book by Nancy M. Booth
A more in depth look into creating perfumes and other fragrance based products. There are a lot of great recipes in this book and is great for someone who really wants to dig their teeth into perfumery.

Floral Waxes

Jasmine, Rose, Tuberose, Lotus... 

These titles sound so enchanting, don't they? The luxurious aromas of these flowers are so fragile that they are not often, if at all, found in essential oils. Often, they are made into absolutes, a process that uses a solvent to extract the delicate fragrances from these flowers. During the manufacturing of absolutes the natural solid wax from the plant is left behind. This is called floral wax. It retains a milder aroma than is found in the absolute, but its creamy texture makes it a desirable ingredient in its own right. Floral waxes can be incorporated into creams, lotions, balms and solid perfumes. They tend to be very hard and can sometimes take a little coaxing to melt , but the effort can be very rewarding!

Fruit and Berry Seed Oils

Fruit and Berry Seed Oils are gaining popularity due to their pleasant textures and notable variety of benefits. High in antioxidants and essential fatty acids, Fruit and Berry Seed Oils are wonderful for use in wide range of skincare products. They are particularly suited to anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and dry or damaged skin formulations. Fruit Seeds contain some of the most powerful sources of antioxidants found in nature. They are highly emolient, and usually light in texture, with subtle, fatty aromas. To make a great thing even better, the stability of these oils is exceptional. Strawberry Seed Oil, Red Raspberry Seed Oil and Cranberry Seed Oil, for instance, have average shelf lives of 2 years, making them excellent choices for use in creams, lotions, and other fragile formulations. FromNatureWithLove.com is proud to carry an extensive line of Fruit and Berry Seed Oils.

Black Raspberry Seed Oil
This light, penetrating oil has a stable shelf life, a slightly golden color, and a mild fruity aroma. It is rich in vitamin E, phytonutrients, antioxidants, and essential fatty acids. It is particularly rich in alpha-linolenic and linoleic acids. It has been cold pressed to preserve clarity and the natural properties of the oil.

Blackberry Seed Oil
Blackberry Seed Oil is rich in antioxidants as well as vitamin C. Stable sources of vitamin C are rare and valuable in skincare formulations. Our cold pressed Blackberry Seed Oil is also high in the essential fatty acids: linoleic, alpha-linolenic, oleic, and palmitic acids.

Blackcurrant Seed Oil
Blackcurrant seed oil is rich in gamma-linolenic acid, an important ingredient for maintaining the elasticity of the skin, regulating dry skin conditions, and preventing moisture loss from the skin. Additionally, it has a significantly high tocopherol content.

Blueberry Seed Oil
As one of nature's most powerful antioxidants, the blueberry has been treasured for it's flavor and nutritional value for some time. The introduction of Blueberry Seed Oil is very exciting for the skincare industry. It is rich in essential fatty acids and phytonutrients. The oil is also very light, stable, and absorbs quickly into the skin. It has been cold pressed to preserve the oil's clarity and natural benefits.

Cranberry Seed Oil
This highly moisturizing oil is is rich in Vitamin A, phytosterols, and phospholipids. It is significantly high in vitamin E, especially tocotrienols and tocopherols. This cold pressed oil is very stable. Its shelf life can help to stabilize other, more fragile oils, in formulations. Cranberry Seed Oil possesses a unique balance of Omega-3, 6, and 9 essential fatty acids. It is an excellent choice for a variety of skincare formulations, including creams, lotions and hair care products.

Kiwi Seed Oil
Our cold pressed Kiwi Seed Oil contains a very high content of omega-3, aplha-linolenic acid. In fact, it's total fatty acid content contains over 60% of omega-3. This makes it particularly useful in treating dry or damaged skin. It can also aid in moisture retention when used in skin and hair products. Kiwi Seed Oil is rich in phytonutrients, minerals, and vitamins C and E, making it a very unique and beneficial ingredient.

Pomegranate Seed Oil
Pomegranate Oil is one of the most fascinating new ingredients available. It's unique composition of fatty acids and tocopherols gives the oil many beneficial properties. Pomegranate Oil can help to aid in the skin's resistance against free radicals. It can also reduce inflammation and moisturize the skin. Studies have shown that Pomegranate Oil can even promote pro-collagen synthesis and strengthen the epidermis. Studies have shown that Pomegranate Oil  may even be effective at killing skin and breast cancer cells when applied topically.

Red Raspberry
One of our most popular berry seed oils is the Red Raspberry Seed Oil. It is naturally high in polyphenols, vitamin A, and vitamin E. It contains up to 83% of omega-3 and omega-6 essential fatty acids. Red Raspberry Seed Oil's rich antioxidant value gives it strong anti-inflammatory properties. This cold pressed oil is light, absorbs quickly, and is very stable.

Strawberry Seed Oil
Our newest addition to our line of Fruit and Berry Seed Oils is Strawberry Seed Oil. Like Cranberry and Red Raspberry Oil, Strawberry Seed Oil has a very stable shelf life and is rich in antioxidants and fatty acids. It is particularly rich in gamma tocopherol, linoleic, alpha-linolenic and oleic fatty acids. This makes Strawberry Seed Oil a very beneficial addition to our popular line of Fruit and Berry Seed Oils.

Apple Granola Face Mask

After my last post I was inspired to take my own advice. I plucked a ripe, red apple from my fruit bowl, gathered some complimentary ingredients, and set to work on a new fresh mask recipe.

Apple Granola Face Mask

Ingredients
One half of a fresh apple (chopped)
2 tablespoons  Colloidal Oatmeal, Coarse
1 tablespoon Honey Powder
1 tablespoon Buttermilk Powder
1 tablespoon Oat Starch

Directions
Puree the apple in a blender or food processor. Add other ingredients and puree once more. The consistency should be that of a thick liquid.

Packaging & Usage
Apply one to two tablespoons of mixture to your face, avoiding eyes. Leave mask on for ten to fifteen minutes then rinse away. The extra mask can be stored and in an air tight container in the refrigerator for three to five days. As with all fresh recipes, keep an eye on your mask. If it changes color, odor, or texture, or if you simply suspect is has gone bad, please discard it immediately.

Autumn Leaves and Apple Trees

When October comes to New England it brings with it an amazing multi-colored coat of oranges, reds and yellows. The constant glow of the Autumn foliage can warm your spirit as the temperature drops. Cool, breezy hikes, mugs of hot tea, and light knitted cardigans are a few of my favorite things about October. Another thing I love about this month is apples!

For my friends and I, apple picking is one of the highlights of the fall. Every October we pack up the wee ones and take a trip to Averill Farm in nearby, Washington, Connecticut. This scenic orchard is magnificently planted on a high hill top. On a clear day the views are just breathtaking. Combine that with a brilliant blue sky, fresh air, and cute kids riding in apple filled wagons, and you have a day trip that won't soon be forgotten. Please feel free to check out some pictures from our last trip in my photo album. Take a look at these nationwide orchard listings to plan your own day of apple picking.

Freshly picked apples come pouring into farm markets and grocery stores at this time of year, calling to mind all of those delicious creations that apples can be used to make. While most people are thinking of what apples can bring to their kitchen, my mind is naturally turned toward the bath. Apples can make great home spa ingredients. As Winter approaches, limiting the bounty of fresh fruits available locally, apples are one of the last hurrahs for fresh food and ingredient enthusiasts.

Apples are naturally rich in Vitamin C, antioxidants, and flavanoids. This gives them great skin brightening ability. Apples can also help reduce redness with their natural anti-inflammatory properties. A fresh mask can be made easily with apples. They can be mashed into a paste and used as is, or they can be added to other complimentary ingredients for a luxurious home spa experience. Add Yogurt or Milk Powder to increase exfoliation. Honey or Honey Powder can be added to increase the mask's cleansing and antiseptic properties. An oil that is high in antioxidant value would also make a nice addition to your apple mask. Red Raspberry Seed Oil or Cranberry Seed Oil would be ideal choices, as they also carry some anti-inflammatory properties. Be creative!

Do you have a favorite skin care recipe that includes apples? If so, I would love to hear about it! Please leave a comment or contact me with the recipe you would like to share.

Ultra Refined Cocoa Butter

While the scrumptious dark chocolate scent of Regular Cocoa Butter is a bonus in many formulations, it can be a hindrance in others. It can be difficult, or even impossible to mask. There are few butters that compare to the unique consistency and properties of Cocoa Butter. Being forced to choose a substitute can be downright depressing. Luckily, you may not have to! FromNatureWithLove.com is proud to carry a truly odorless Cocoa Butter. Our Ultra Refined Cocoa Butter is very different than the deodorized Cocoa butters that we have carried in the past. This butter is bright white, and carries no trace of chocolate scent. The greatest thing about this new butter is that the properties of regular Cocoa Butter have not suffered from the removal of its characteristic odor. It is extremely stable and emolient, just like regular Cocoa Butter. The advantage of this product is that you can add it to formulas that are planned to remain odorless, or that is scented with an aroma that does not mix well with chocolate, such as florals or designer type fragrances. You can also use Ultra Refined Cocoa Butter "as is" in the same way that you would use Regular Cocoa Butter. Only this time you won't be left smelling like a chocolate bar!